Canyoning

A few weeks ago, a few friends and I gathered together for a quick trip to the Somoto Canyon. I figured I’d wait to write about it until I’d gathered a few of the photos my friends took.

It was very late in the season to attempt a visit: during the dry, summer season, the river in the canyon is relatively calm and clear. It is a popular Semana Santa destination for local Nicaraguans, because it offers miles of swimming, floating, and sunbathing spots. However, by this point the rains had started, and the canyon was beginning to fill and transform. When the winter rains begin in earnest, the river becomes treacherous; swift, deep, and muddy, with rapids that could easy damage a boat or human body.

Still, we all craved a bit of adventure, and couldn’t bear the thought of having to wait another six or seven months to have an opportunity to explore. So we hired a local guide with a good reputation and connections to one of our host families, packed up our supplies (including some amazing homemade carrot ayote bread, which made me really miss having an oven), and headed out.

The trip took four hours, beginning with a one hour descent into the canyon. The surrounding land is rocky, scrubby, and wild. There is only a small, foot-worn path that meanders to the river’s edge, hardly noticeable unless one is looking for it. Once we reached the river, the fun began. We put our shoes and clothes in waterproof sacks, donned lifejackets, and hopped into the water. We spent the next four hours splashing, swimming, and floating through the river. We slipped over small rapids, attempted miniature cliff dives (20-25 foot drops, as opposed to the 50-70 foot drops that the local children preferred. I admired their utter lack of fear, but I’m not crazy. I stuck with the minimum), and let the current carry us as we floated on our backs, staring up at the sheer cliff walls, speckled with plant growth and small waterfalls. If you have ever taken a trip to Zion National Park, you will have a pretty good idea of our surroundings. However, here are a few photographs to help all those who haven’t had the good fortune to visit one of the United States’ more interesting national parks.

The Somoto Canyon is beautiful, and by all accounts should be mobbed by tourists from beginning to end of the season. However, we found it to be completely devoid of all visitors, with the exception of four preteen boys that were clearly from a nearby town. While I can’t say I didn’t enjoy not having to share this incredible place with hundreds of other extranjeros, it makes me a bit sad to realize how little outsiders know of all that Nicaragua has to offer as a tourist destination. The geography itself should be enough to bring hoards of outdoor enthusiasts: mountains, forests (tropical and deciduous), two expansive coast lines, tropical islands, volcanoes (active and dormant), and freshwater lakes. There is a wide variety of flora and fauna to seek out, including some breathtaking examples of nature’s most colorful creations. If life outdoors isn’t what you crave, you will still find plenty to enjoy in the cities of Granada and Leon, with their old-world colonial Spanish charm, in a lazy beach town like Corinto, or in a fun port city like Bluefields, which provides a unique cultural experience owing to its mix of Caribbean, Spanish, and indigenous Nicaraguan inhabitants (I’ve been told it feels somewhat like New Orleans, and the food incorporates a lot of coconut).

I suppose I sound a bit right now like I’m working for the Nicaraguan Tourist Board. I assure you (and Peace Corps – don’t worry, I’m not breaking rules and working a salaried position out up here in Madriz) that I’m not. I’m just beginning to see how amazing this country is – how much potential it has – and hoping to inspire a few of you to experience it for yourselves.

Word of the Week: Huella – footprint, track, trace

A Shout Out

To all those who have sent postcards and care packages. THANK YOU!!!

Word of the week: regalar - to gift. Often, when people want you to give them something, they don't use the word give, but gift. So, thanks for gifting me all of the wonderful treats and kind words!

Then and Now: A Comparison in Pictures

I’ve made a few mentions of how I’ve been adjusting to a new mode of living here in Nicaragua. For fun, I thought I’d walk you through some of these changes. While the “before” shots are borrowed from the internet and provide a more general idea, I assure you the “current” images are all mine. Without further ado …

Stove: Then

Stove: Now

Shower: Then

Shower: Now

Toilet: Then

Toilet: Now

Washing Machine: Then

Washing Machine: Now

Dryer: Then

Dryer: Now

Electrical Wiring: Then

Electrical Wiring: Now

Security System: Then

Security System: Now

Entertainment: Then

Entertainment: Now

I guess somethings haven´t changed all that much...

Because without mothers, there would be no life

May 30th is Mother’s Day in Nicaragua, which means a month-long nationwide women’s health initiative. Over the next five weeks, the health centers will be holding women´s health fairs to promote various preventative measures, hosting parties at the casas maternas* to honor mothers and soon-to-be mothers, and offering more specialty services such as ultrasounds and PAP smears. We kicked off our own activities with a small party for our pregnant women on Friday, and a big health fair in one of the municipality’s many communities. After nearly three weeks of backroom activities (research, mural making, materials design), these events felt like my first real go at volunteerhood: I led small activities, gave health presentations, and even helped out (if only a tiny bit) at the health post in their vaccination station and pharmacy. The days were long and exhausting, but I finished each feeling more satisfied than I’ve felt since arriving at site. With only two days to prepare, the activities and presentations were a bit rougher than I would have liked, but I have four more weeks to refine the process.

A few fun (not really) women’s health-related facts:

Nicaragua offers a variety of family planning options, all of which can be obtained without cost at any neighborhood health facility. Many women in Nicaragua do not use any form of family planning method. However, among those who do, the three month injection remains the most popular form of birth control. Why is this all important?

• Because family planning methods remain underutilized and sexual activity is often initiated at an early age, Nicaragua experiences a relatively high rate of teenage pregnancy. Larger families are also the norm. It is not uncommon for a woman to have her first child by 15 or 16, and to have four children by her mid- to late twenties.
• In the same vein, the underutilization of condoms has led to increased rates of sexually transmitted infections. While Nicaragua is fortunate to have a relatively low rate of HIV, the same cannot be said for Chlamydia, Gonorrhea, Syphilis, Herpes, and HPV. What makes the situation harder is the fact that women often refuse to get PAP smears; Nicaragua does not offer tests for Chlamydia, Gonorrhea, or Herpes; and the test for Syphilis is not free.
• Come September, my municipality’s main source of the three month injection will disappear. Our supply will be greatly diminished moving forward, leaving a large number of women without their preferred method of birth control.
• Doctors, nurses, and community health promoters will have to work hard to promote alternative and unpopular forms of birth control, such as the IUD and sterilization. This will mean tackling cultural and religious beliefs that discourage the use of birth control (or even talking about the use of birth control), and correcting misinformation that has contributed to disinterest, distrust, and fear (especially around the use of the IUD).

Nicaragua’s Ministry of Health works hard to try to provide a full range of health services. But the fact is that resources are limited. Supplies run out (or may not be available to begin with), technology is unavailable, and trained medical professionals are stretched thin. So what we may think of as basic in the United States may not be so basic here. Like PAP smears. Or ultrasounds. Or mammograms.

Coffee is huge in Nicaragua. Nicaraguans drink highly sugared coffee morning, noon, and night. They do not, however, drink much water. Fellow volunteers have told me that most Nicaraguans would tell you that by afternoon they had not urinated more than once since they had woken up. People are that dehydrated. What does this mean for women’s health? Yeast infections, urinary tract infections, and kidney disease.

And finally, a lesson learned. When you promise people a piñata, you’d better deliver. Because when people show up to a party or a health fair expecting a piñata, and there is no piñata to be found, people will be pissed. And because they will then be hanging around waiting for health services for the next few hours, you will be hearing about how pissed they are. A lot.

Please note that I had nothing to do with neither the promise nor the lack of delivery. I only got the earful of complaints. Which leads to a second lesson learned: do not try to placate the people by pointing out that, at the very least, there is a doctor present on site. You may then be forced to explain with your still inadequate Spanish skills that you were only stating that it was worth their time to show up, not suggesting that they use the doctor as a piñata.

*Apologies for never explaining what a casa materna is up until now! Casas maternas house pregnant women from rural areas in the weeks leading up to delivery. Located in the more urban areas (such as department or municipal capitals), they provide easy access to health services and thus lower the risks of maternal child mortality associated with poor, rural childbirth.

Women are usually given a bed and basic food supplies. If resources are very limited, however, women might need to supplement with their own food, and may need to share a twin sized bed with another equally pregnant woman. If there is a designated support staff member on site, this woman will cook and clean for the women. Otherwise, they are responsible for cooking and cleaning for themselves. Once women check into the casa materna, they are not allowed to leave until they give birth. There is very little to do in the casa materna other than eat, rest, and watch TV. Women must also leave their families behind for several weeks. Consequently, women often refuse to show up, or flee after a few days. They are then hunted down by health center staff and dragged back (for their own good of course). One of my jobs as a maternal health volunteer is to find (cheap to free) ways of entertaining these bored, homesick women. Please feel free to send suggestions my way J

Word of the week: Cuidarse – to take care of oneself. Because we all should do a little more of that, even if we aren’t mothers.

I’m not lazy, I’m adjusting

From my blog posts as of late, you’re probably all thinking that the majority of my time here in Nicaragua is spent observing and/or killing the native wildlife. This is not entirely true. In between the Raid-infused insect massacres and brick-sized rat traps, I’ve actually started to do a bit of work.

During training, both Peace Corps staff and current volunteers warned us that we most likely would experience a three to six month period of time in the beginning of our service in which we would spend most of our time “adjusting” (in other words, doing very little work). In the eyes of Peace Corps, this process of getting to know our community and the host country culture has just as much value as any of the outputs produced during our two year period. It is a time to build professional and personal networks, gain a better understanding of the people we will be working with, and learn the best ways in which to work with them. It is also a time for our colleagues and community members to learn about us and American culture.

I will admit that so far, much of my activity falls solidly into this category of “adjustment.” I have made many trips into the surrounding communities, following around health center staff like a puppy as they treat patients, and making friends with the community health workers (brigadistas) that I plan to work with more extensively in the future. I have attended several meetings, and even stumbled through short presentations on lactation, nutrition, hypertension, and family planning. However, I am also preparing materials for presentations on various health topics, and plan to begin weekly presentations at the health center and casa materna this week. Oh and I got to weigh and measure some adorable little kids.

I’m not terribly concerned that my work thus far has been limited. I’ve developed a three month (and beyond) work plan that includes activities such as:

• Giving presentations in health facilities, community meetings, and schools
• Visiting the communities to participate in programs related to family planning, maternal and child health, environmental health, and nutrition,
• Making health posters,
• Forming youth groups,
• Co-facilitating trainings,
• Planting community gardens,
• Organizing a health fair,
• Developing and implementing a community health survey, and
• Assisting with epidemiological work.

I have visions of construction projects if I can find a way to collaborate with the mayor{s office or NGOs: a basic health facility, latrines, and an oven to provide food and an income generating opportunity for the casa materna. There are also potential opportunities to engage in non-health related activities, such as teaching English to high school or college aged youth.

I’m not sure at this point how much of this plan will be realized, but I do know that I will do more than adjust.

Words of the week:  Taller - training
Aprovechar - to take advantage (of a situation - positive connotation)

I don’t need pets; I have plenty of visitors.

Many Peace Corps volunteers adopt a pet at some point during their two year service. I admit that I’ve considered the idea but never seriously, as the responsibility of caring for any animal here is most likely more than I would want to take on. “Pet” means something different here than in the states; animals rarely receive the level of affection, attention, and coddling that Americans lavish on their beloved furry friends. Instead, pets are guard animals, pest control, and scrap clean-up. They are generally left to their own devices, and are rarely kept indoors (or, to be honest, kept at all – most spend their days wandering the streets, looking for food or potential mates). However, being an American, I would most likely struggle with this method of pet ownership. I would want to keep my pet safe and comfortable, and possibly have it stay in my room. Which would then mean I would need to constantly be worried about a host of insects, parasites, and general filthiness that the pets here carry with them. Then there are the vaccinations, the spaying or neutering (sadly underused here), the food, and pet care while I am working or traveling… See what I mean? Too much trouble for lazy me.

But I may have found another solution. I can just consider all of the various creatures that invade my room on a daily basis my new, albeit temporary, pets. For example, there are the toads that visit me after rain storms. Or the bees that fly in after visiting the branches of the flowering trees that drape over my roof. Or the mice that make nightly appearances, with their incredible ability to scale walls or find and devour any scrap of food, no matter how small, well-packaged, or hidden. Sometimes they also eat things that I would not consider to be food. Which brings me to a story about another “pet” – one that I hope does not make a reappearance.

Thursday night, as I prepared myself for bed, I noticed a large dark blotch on the wall near my shoes. I went to inspect this unidentifiable form, then quickly recoiled – it was a scorpion. Dark brown, fat, with a body the size of a half dollar. What to do? I could attempt to grab one of the shoes and squash it, but it was so close to the shoe that this might provoke an attack. Furthermore, I am not known for my accuracy when attempting to kill insects on vertical surfaces; if I missed, would it run toward my feet? Jump at my hand? I wasn’t willing to risk it.

So I did the next best thing. Standing on the corner of my bed, I grabbed my can of Raid, aimed, and began firing. At which point, I realized that this was not just any scorpion. This was a mother scorpion. With dozens of baby scorpions, all riding on its back. As the Raid worked it’s horrifyingly toxic magic, the family was left twitching on the floor. I blasted everything a bit longer for good measure, then tucked myself under my mosquito net, turned off the light, and struggled to breathe (made difficult by my lingering terror and the overwhelming cloud of toxic fumes).

I slept poorly that night, and awoke feeling exhausted and ill. I climbed out of bed and went over to the corner to examine the remains of my kill and determine clean-up processes, only to find….nothing. The corpses had disappeared completely, leaving a chemically saturated but otherwise clean patch of floor. I panicked. Had I been wrong about the effectiveness of the Raid? Were they simply wet, and were now lying in wait, plotting their revenge? Once again, I lost my breath. Then, it came back to me. The scuttling and crunching during the night. I asked around, and had a very helpful friend back home do some digging, and it turns out….mice will eat dead scorpions. Even toxic scorpion corpses. I don’t know if this makes me more afraid of the mice, but I can rest easier knowing that I don’t have a family of reanimated scorpions out to kill me.

The funny thing? I may have avoided a scorpion sting on Thursday, but last night as I was getting ready for bed, I was bitten by yet another, more common visitor: a cricket. Which, according to the research conducted by my friend, will also eat scorpion if given the opportunity.

Word of the week: Alacran – scorpion.

Greetings from in-site!

After spending the weekend with my fellow Nica 58ers, celebrating our transition to volunteerhood, I find myself in the hills of Madriz. It is significantly hotter and drier now than only a few weeks ago, but I am still impressed by the beauty of my new home.

I begin my life as a volunteer during Semana Santa, perhaps one of the most holy weeks of the year for a large number of Central American inhabitants. Work grinds to a halt as people reunite with extended family, attend church services, and spend time relaxing near any locally available source of water (an ocean, a lake, a river, or in the case of Madriz, a giant canyon).

Consequently, I haven’t had much to do other than begin the settling in process. Slowly but surely, I am learning to use the wood burning stove. I am adjusting once more to the 5 am to 9 pm day (made easier by the fact that the sun swiftly abandons its post in the Nicaraguan sky around 6 pm year-round). I am getting back to grocery shopping, and have purchased a few “adjustment items” such as Tupperware and an electric hot plate (in case of emergencies or laziness).

And then there’s my Spanish. My poor brain has had a rough go of things in the language department these past two weeks. The amount of English being spoken on a daily basis seemed to quadruple following our final language interview, making any attempt to switch back to Spanish mode harder and harder. Now that I am in-site, I am struggling to get back to full operational capacity, a task made more difficult by northern Nica vocabulary and speaking styles. Although I am feeling somewhat discouraged by my ineffective communication and comprehension skills, I do find myself having small moments of success: making a joke that is appreciated by a coworker, correctly guessing the answer to a riddle posed by a child, or understanding the majority of the dialogue in the Spanish-dubbed Ocean’s Eleven. One might argue that the last example is hardly impressive given the number of times I’ve seen the movie in English, but I’m going to go ahead and list it as a success anyway. I am looking forward to seeing what advances I can make in the next few months leading up to our in-service language training.

Work starts officially on Monday. Until then, I suppose it’s time to learn the art of Central American relaxation. Anyone up for a trip to the canyon?

Nica word of the week: Chigüin(a) - child (Northern Nica! In the south, we used "chavalo")