Disclaimer: These are our personal thoughts and opinions; they do not represent the beliefs of the United States government or those of the Peace Corps

Saturday, November 9, 2013

Travel Journal, Part Three: Medical Brigade to Pedregal

Itinerary

Day One: Travel Day (Destination – Pedregal; Travel by Boat)
Days Two and Three: Pedregal
Days Four and Five: Blue Lagoon (Travel by Horse; Return to Pedregal at the end of Day Five)
Days Six and Seven: San José (Travel by Horse; Return to Pedregal at the end of Day Seven)
Days Eight and Nine: Pondler (Travel by Boat)
Day Ten: Arenitas (Travel by Boat) and San Pablo (Travel by Horse; Return by Boat to Pearl Lagoon at End of Day)

Whereas the Wawashan River was wide and picturesque, the Pachy River was narrow, dangerously shallow, and almost completely choked in parts with fallen branches. The Pachy River was barely controlled chaos, and there we were, in the middle of it.


Storm clouds had rolled in early on the day of our departure. The plastic tarp had to be unrolled after only an hour of travel, and we didn’t emerge from underneath it until we bumped up against the muddy shore of Pondler. There, we transferred to a larger, slow moving wooden boat (think along the lines of a large canoe), and fought our way (still enveloped in dirty black tarp) up the river for four hours. Six hours after starting out, we reached Pedregal.

No one met us by the river bank to help us carry the sacks of medical supplies and belongings. Nor was there a soul to guide us to the health outpost, located about 20 minutes from the shoreline. We struck out a path, shouldering what we could, and quickly found ourselves sinking, shin- to knee-deep, in mud. Soft, sticky, odious mud. Boots filled with slime. People lost their balance and toppled over. Sandals and shoes were sucked off of feet. We were, in short, miserable.


When we had nearly reached the clinic, we were met on the trail by two young men on horseback. Laughing at our plight, they informed us that the route we’d chosen was for horses and mules. Another, drier trail was available for pedestrians. Cursing, we finished the trek and washed away the accumulated grime in the outside sink with clean bedpans we’d found. No food had been prepared for us, so we ate insufficient suppers of crackers, hung our hammocks in the clinic, and collapsed for the night.

Mud emerged as the consistent theme of this journey. Mud was ever-present; in the roads and rivers, spattered on our clothes, stuck to our boots, and occasionally in our hair. Add the sticky heat and you have a pretty good recipe for misery. Every day, we washed ourselves and our clothes, only to be covered once again by red-brown muck. Lest I lead you to believe that I spent my entire time simply obsessing over personal hygiene, however, I should speak of the work that we accomplished.

My first two days of the brigade were spent holding the final training on Plan de Parto and ECMAC with the community health workers of the Pedregal area. I can now happily report that I am half-way finished with my SPA project!  The rest of the brigade was spent in a similar fashion as that of the Pueblo Nuevo brigade: early mornings; rainy days; long, muddy horseback rides (and one terrifying trip in a dory, or cayuco – a small, incredibly unstable wooden boat); meals of beans, rice, and tortilla; meetings with the community men (made more difficult this time by the rice harvest); malaria testing; photography; bathing and washing in creeks; and long, dark nights of whining mosquitos, hair-raising trips to the latrine, and sleep in hammocks. This brigade, however, was smoother and overall more pleasant than the last. We accomplished a good deal of work, and there was a greater harmony between the team members. Oh yes, and less instances of accidents and illnesses. At the end of the ten days, I was certainly ready to return home – I longed for my bed, my shower, and my (relatively) mud-free life in Pearl Lagoon – but I wasn’t desperate to escape, as I’d felt my first time around. I’d like to believe that, with each of these brigades, I’m growing a bit; becoming a little bit tougher and more resilient. I guess I’ll have to wait and see – I have two brigades left to go…

Training, complete with pig as special guest
One of our meetings with community men
Weighing babies (they always cry)
Malaria Testing
One of the communities
The ride to Blue Lagoon
Early morning washing
One of the creeks we used to bathe and wash
A very unnerving ride down a river
The ride to San Pablo
Word of the Day: renko – lame, crippled (I learned this word after being stuck on a renko mule for a three hour journey back from a community. An unpleasant experience to say the least.)

Saturday, November 2, 2013

Travel Journal, Part Two: “Living Positive” Conference and Ideas Exchange in Managua

Two days after returning from the Pueblo Nuevo medical brigade, I was forced from my home once more. Monday morning, I took the early boat to Bluefields, where I ran last minute errands for a conference I’d been helping to plan over the past few months. Although I was excited for the conference – a workshop and ideas exchange for individuals living with HIV from Bluefields, Chinandega, Masaya, and Managua – I was already exhausted and sick from the brigade. I prayed that everything would go smoothly, that we would have good traveling weather, and that I could manage to keep from infecting others with my cold.
Tuesday morning began at 4:30 AM, with a hurried bucket bath before heading down to the wharf to meet the Atlantic coast participants. Although our boat was scheduled to leave at 6 AM, the entire group had arrived by 5:45 AM. I was impressed; maybe my prayers had been answered. The trip to Rama was trouble-free; a mid-way stop along the banks of the river provided us a snack of fresh, sweet oranges. Likewise, the bus travel between Rama and Managua, and then to Pochomil Beach were pleasant and uneventful. We arrived at the Oceanside hotel and conference center at 4 PM.

The next two and a half days were packed with informational sessions. As so often happens with conferences, the beauty of the venue was underappreciated; we rarely left the conference room before 5 PM. Yet we managed to enjoy the beach during early morning walks, a sunset yoga and meditation session on the first full day, and a bonfire and dance party on the second night. More importantly, the participants seemed to learn a lot from the session facilitators and from one another about how to manage their disease and their general state of wellbeing – physically, mentally, emotionally, and spiritually. HIV is still a highly stigmatized disease in Nicaragua; most of the participants have to hide their status not only from strangers and coworkers, but from friends and family. This isolated, beachside venue provided a rare opportunity to openly discuss their lives and their disease. Questions were finally asked and answered, experiences were shared, and new friendships were formed.

Early on Thursday morning, we packed our belongings into the bus, ate a quick breakfast, and said our goodbyes before starting the long trip back to the other coast. An excellent, though brief, trip. And I think I managed to keep my cough to myself.

Word of the week: bienestar - wellbeing