Advice for Visitors

With only a little over a week before the highly anticipated arrival of a good friend, I thought I might share some advice for those thinking of visiting Nicaragua for the first time:

Do not expect people to speak or understand English. Nicaragua has not yet become a vacation destination on par with Costa Rica or Panama, even though it may rival its neighbors in its offerings of natural beauty. Therefore, less emphasis has been placed on the inhabitants learning English sufficiently to cater to a tourist crowd. All children who attend high school receive English language classes, but as those who have taken foreign language classes probably know, it can be very difficult to learn a language when one has only one and a half to two hours weekly of study and practice. There are, however, a few places in Nicaragua in which one is more likely to encounter an English speaker: Managua, Leon, Esteli, Matagalpa, Granada, and San Juan del Sur. And of course, there is the Atlantic coast – Bluefields, Pearl Lagoon, and the Corn Islands – where Creole English is prevalent.

Before you travel, you may want to learn a few key phrases:

¿Dónde está el baño? – Where is the bathroom?

¿Podría llevarme… - Could you take me…

                  Al aeropuerto? – the airport?

                  Al hotel _______? – the hotel (name)?

                  Al restaurante ________? – the restaurant (name)?

¿Podría tener…? – Could I have (item on menu…etc)?

La cuenta por favor – The check please

Bring along a Nicaragua guidebook so that you can point to words if needed…or travel with a friend who knows Spanish!

Do not necessarily expect people to understand your Spanish either. Many Nicaraguans have not been exposed to Spanish speakers with accents different than their own. Therefore, if you learned Mexican Spanish or Argentinean Spanish, you may find yourself getting a lot of blank or confused stares, even if you are speaking correctly. Have patience. You’ll probably be able to get your point across after the third or fourth repetition.

Do you research: If using public transportation, try to find out the schedule of departures and cost before you set out. In some cases, there are limited options for getting from one place to another, and buses, unlike most things in Nicaragua, actually run on a rather strict schedule and depart on-time. It’s best to know so that you can get to the bus stop or station early – an hour before should be sufficient to reserve a seat or, at the very least, a spot in line.

The cost issue with buses, but in the case of taxis, many drivers will try to take advantage of the ignorance of travelers and charge higher fares. You may be able to bargain with the driver to get a lower price, or you may need to say “ah, gracias…” and move on to the next taxi. An important note about Managua: try not to take just any public taxi, as there have been “express kidnaps” in which unsuspecting travelers are essentially held hostage and robbed once inside the taxi, then dropped off in a random (and often dangerous) neighborhood. Arrange rides with the assistance of a concierge, host, or other appropriate staff member.

The food will probably not be what you expected. Reading my blog will probably have prepared you somewhat, but you need to know that you will not be eating the Mexican food of the United States. First of all, seemingly familiar menu items are deceptive. For example, tacos here are more like flautas in the states – shredded meat is wrapped in a corn tortilla and fried, then topped with cabbage salad, mayonnaise, and ketchup. You never know what you’ll get when you order a hamburger: some are made with beef, others with soy meat, and sometimes you’ll end up with a chicken patty reminiscent of your school cafeteria days. Most places that make pizza produce something like that out of the freezer section of your local grocery store. And “crema,” while often having the look and consistency of cream, does NOT taste like cream but rather more like sour cream. Good to splash on top of your beans, but not in your coffee!

Also, the flavors will probably be different. Nicaraguans, in general, do not enjoy spicy foods. Most food is flavored only with onion, salt, garlic, vinegar, and/or lime juice. Some dishes also incorporate cilantro, basil, mint, or orange juice. On the Atlantic coast, you’ll find coconut milk or cream in many food items. If you want to make your food más picante, ask for hot sauce (salsa picante) or chile (hot peppers, onions, and occasionally vegetables such as carrots, soaking in vinegar and/or lime juice). Nicaraguans do, however, like their sugar. Natural juices will have a large amount of sugar, as will coffee, smoothies, and most other beverages. You’ll probably be out of luck when it comes to the juice (and depending on the place, the coffee too), but if you’d like less sugar, ask for your beverage to be prepared “sin azucar” (without sugar) or “con poco azucar” (with little sugar).

Foods that are less likely to disappoint or confuse include grilled meats, rice and beans, fried chicken, homemade chips (plantain, yucca, malanga, or potato), smoothies and milkshakes (licuados and batidos), hot dogs, and fresh fruits.

Some food should be avoided. You should probably stick to bottled beverages while traveling. As good as those bagged frescos may look as they’re waved in front of you by the elderly lady or little boy on the bus, skip them – the ice may have been made with unclean water, or the block could have been dragged through the gutter before being chopped up and put in your drink. You may also want to avoid the ceviche by the side of the road when you’re nowhere near the ocean. You can try to be smart about what you eat on the street, but unless you stick to chatarra (pre-packaged snacks and bottled soft drinks), there’s always a chance that something might make you sick. At some point you’ll need to decide whether or not you want to take the risk in order to enjoy some of Nicaragua’s finer food offerings.

Lodging can be confusing. Some places require a reservation, although unless it’s high season it’s usually possible to reserve a room up to a day or two before. Some places do not take reservations. Some take reservations but then ignore them. Some require a deposit (but many will not take credit cards), some require up-front payment, and some will have you pay when you check out. You may pay by the room, or by the person. Amenities like towels, soap, breakfast, fans, hot water, and daily cleaning of the rooms varies greatly. It’s best to do a bit of research before you go – look at reviews, ask around. In most places, you’ll have a few options to choose from, and at least one will be decent to nice. Cheap doesn’t necessarily mean bad, nor does expensive mean good (or significantly better than the cheaper or mid-range options). Stay away from auto-motels.

Throw all used toilet paper in the waste basket provided next to the toilet. No one likes a flooding toilet. Exceptions may be made in the case of latrines (though some may still require that you place paper in a separate receptacle so as not to fill the latrine as quickly) and in some hotels (a good indicator is a lack of receptacle in the restroom).

Use your mosquito net. If one is being provided, there is a reason. Not only are mosquitoes annoying, they also carry dengue and malaria (you may also want to invest in some good insect repellent). Plus, mosquito nets are good for protecting you from a variety of other nighttime visitors (best not to think about that much).

Bring earplugs and an eye mask if you are a light sleeper. Those who have lived here for a while do not notice the roosters, music, talking, and other noises outside, but you probably will. The sun rises early – never any later than 6:00 AM – and people often rise with it. Expect a light-filled room and people moving about (often noisily) outside of it quite early.

Plan your activities appropriately. Nicaragua is close to the equator. It is hot. Very few places in the country will be cool enough at mid-day to want to spend extended periods outside and active unless you are by or in the water. During the rainy season (June – November, September and October being the rainiest), you can expect nearly daily showers in the afternoon. They don’t last too long, but you’ll want to take cover when you see the storm coming because it rains hard. During late March, April, and May, it will be HOT. No matter where you are, you will probably be uncomfortable to miserable, especially at mid-day. All year round, you’ll have the early sunrise as mentioned above, and a sun-set around 5:30 – 6:00 pm.

Also be aware of major holidays and festivals. These events will give you an opportunity to experience local cultural traditions, but they will also limit your ability to travel.

Life is simpler. Outside of a few major cities, you will not find movie theaters, fancy restaurants or foreign food options, museums, shopping malls, boutiques, spas, concert venues or live music, book stores, or air-conditioning. What makes Nicaragua a good place to visit is not the “stuff” it has to sell you, but rather the friendliness of the people, the richness and beauty of the land, and the slow-moving, peaceful atmosphere. Take a deep breath, relax, and adjust your pace to a simpler existence.

Words of the week: Pasear – to pass time (equivalent to hanging out or enjoying free time); Extranjero - foreigner