A
few weeks ago, a few friends and I gathered together for a quick trip to the
Somoto Canyon. I figured I’d wait to write about it until I’d gathered a few of
the photos my friends took.
It
was very late in the season to attempt a visit: during the dry, summer season,
the river in the canyon is relatively calm and clear. It is a popular Semana
Santa destination for local Nicaraguans, because it offers miles of swimming,
floating, and sunbathing spots. However, by this point the rains had started,
and the canyon was beginning to fill and transform. When the winter rains begin
in earnest, the river becomes treacherous; swift, deep, and muddy, with rapids
that could easy damage a boat or human body.
Still,
we all craved a bit of adventure, and couldn’t bear the thought of having to
wait another six or seven months to have an opportunity to explore. So we hired
a local guide with a good reputation and connections to one of our host
families, packed up our supplies (including some amazing homemade carrot ayote
bread, which made me really miss having an oven), and headed out.
The
trip took four hours, beginning with a one hour descent into the canyon. The
surrounding land is rocky, scrubby, and wild. There is only a small, foot-worn
path that meanders to the river’s edge, hardly noticeable unless one is looking
for it. Once we reached the river, the fun began. We put our shoes and clothes
in waterproof sacks, donned lifejackets, and hopped into the water. We spent
the next four hours splashing, swimming, and floating through the river. We
slipped over small rapids, attempted miniature cliff dives (20-25 foot drops,
as opposed to the 50-70 foot drops that the local children preferred. I admired
their utter lack of fear, but I’m not crazy. I stuck with the minimum), and let
the current carry us as we floated on our backs, staring up at the sheer cliff
walls, speckled with plant growth and small waterfalls. If you have ever taken
a trip to Zion National Park, you will have a pretty good idea of our
surroundings. However, here are a few photographs to help all those who haven’t
had the good fortune to visit one of the United States’ more interesting
national parks.
The
Somoto Canyon is beautiful, and by all accounts should be mobbed by tourists
from beginning to end of the season. However, we found it to be completely
devoid of all visitors, with the exception of four preteen boys that were
clearly from a nearby town. While I can’t say I didn’t enjoy not having to
share this incredible place with hundreds of other extranjeros, it makes me a
bit sad to realize how little outsiders know of all that Nicaragua has to offer
as a tourist destination. The geography itself should be enough to bring hoards
of outdoor enthusiasts: mountains, forests (tropical and deciduous), two
expansive coast lines, tropical islands, volcanoes (active and dormant), and
freshwater lakes. There is a wide variety of flora and fauna to seek out,
including some breathtaking examples of nature’s most colorful creations. If
life outdoors isn’t what you crave, you will still find plenty to enjoy in the
cities of Granada and Leon, with their old-world colonial Spanish charm, in a
lazy beach town like Corinto, or in a fun port city like Bluefields, which
provides a unique cultural experience owing to its mix of Caribbean, Spanish,
and indigenous Nicaraguan inhabitants (I’ve been told it feels somewhat like
New Orleans, and the food incorporates a lot of coconut).
I
suppose I sound a bit right now like I’m working for the Nicaraguan Tourist
Board. I assure you (and Peace Corps – don’t worry, I’m not breaking rules and
working a salaried position out up here in Madriz) that I’m not. I’m just
beginning to see how amazing this country is – how much potential it has – and
hoping to inspire a few of you to experience it for yourselves.
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